Mafikeng or Mahikeng...
I awoke to the sounds of nature all around me and breakfasted in the main house before setting off to explore this famous town. As with most towns here it follows a block formation so I tried to find the centre without success. After a little while I spotted a sign to the Tourist and Heritage Centre, crossing a bridge and driving for a short distance I found an impressive building and shaded car park to my left. I drove through the gate and parked up. Imagine my disappointment when I found that the building was not only locked but completely empty.
Returning to the main part of the town and enquired at a government building but no-one seemed to know anything relating to tourism in the town. Eventually I was introduced to the son of a lady who worked there. You will see him on the photos but I do not have his name (I lost my jotter with all of my notes on the trip). He offered to show me around.
Firstly we went to meet Mr Soll Molema at the office of the Barolong Boora Tshidi Traditional Council. He pointed us in the direction of a Mr Selelo at the Mafikeng Museum and also offered to provide me with background information on the work of the Council and the history of Mahikeng as the town is now called. Unfortunately despite extending my stay by a day I was unable to return to his office but I hope to get the information by post. The council seem to provide, amongst other things, housing according to need to the indigenous tribe of the area.
My guide then took me to the Montsioa cultural village meant to show the way of life and skills of the tribe, there is even an authentic looking log kraal. It was closed and appeared uninhabited. From there we found our way to the museum which, again, was closed for refurbishment. It would appear that this has been the case for the past eighteen months with no end in sight. I have the impression that the government of the area wish to show that there is more to celebrate than the Boer War and colonial rule but, at present, they are achieving neither which is a shame. Along with many other areas there is much need for external investment and employment, tourism would assist in this.
We wandered along the main street which contains the Anglican Church, Library and the old Prosecutors Office. This seems to be all that remains of an historical nature. I am told that the Anglican church is beautiful inside with magnificent stained glass windows but it was locked on the two occasions I visited. I could find no trace of Baden Powell and scouting either.
We then drove out past the railway station which was inaccessible due to the number of taxis filling the parking slots, past a huge cemetery and onto one of the main highways out of town. About 5-10km brought us to the home of 10 South Africa Infantry Battalion. I had a chat with the OC to see if there was a battalion museum I could visit but was informed that artefacts from the Battalion had been donated to the Mafikeng Museum. It would appear that the Mafikeng Museum is the font of all knowledge about the town which is now inaccessible, I hope that all will not disappear after refurbishment and it becomes a gallery or something as has happened in other places.
Returning to town we drove passed the football stadium, which I was told is now in some disrepair and a curious tower which represents to arms with hands cupped together. I know not why. I now had time to follow up on the surprise I had when booking into the Ashden Lodge. When I was finding the lodge it appeared to be on a road leading nowhere. In fact about 1.5km father down it ends at the entrance to the Mahikeng Game Reserve. No organised tours here, pay your 35 Rand entrance fee, receive a map of the trails and get on with it. The staff are too busy looking after the permanent residents! A uniquely different and exciting experience from my, now low, vantage point to the guided safari on a high back Landrover. Now I felt like the prey! There is, however, a disadvantage when trying to take photographs as, very often, the grass is higher than I am especially when observing smaller animals such as warthogs.
I had arranged for a visit to Mr Kurt van Greenen, Physiotherapist on my second day in Mahikeng. An excellent fellow and very concerned about my condition. We chatted during treatment and he gave me a place to visit outside of town. On my way I stopped at the cemetery but was unable to find anything of interest as I could not walk too far and, sadly, I did not feel safe – a problem in many areas of the town. I drove out in the direction of Zeerust to find Groot Marco but time was against me and I turned back. All was not lost as I got the chance to explore the Fluorspa mine mentioned in my previous post.
Returning to Mahikeng and the Lodge I set out to find the 'Mal' also well out of town for a consistently tasty fish supper at the local Ocean Basket. Tomorrow the road takes me to Kimberley.
After one last attempt to see the interior of the Anglican Church in Mahikeng it is time to head south to Kimberley. Before we leave here is a link to the South African Tourist Website which will tell you all about the history past and present of Mahikeng. It includes the Anglo-Boer War and Baden-Powell's formation of the scout movement during the 217 day siege of the town.All the information you need on Mahikeng, Mafikeng or Mafiking
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