Down town in Pretoria

It is Saturday and where does everyone go? Down town of course so off I went. Following the 21 into Pretoria after changing my rental car my first view of the city was a building resembling the great wall of China. Is this going to be an 'IKEA' city I asked myself but found to my delight that pockets of history remain amongst the new. I followed a pigeon’s route into the city i.e. my head told me I was heading in the right direction. I pulled over next to a beautiful park as there happened to be a parking slot to consult my map. The sign said 'Bergers Park' and eventually with the help of a local I found out where I was.

I believe that parks and public places tell a lot about a city's management and residents. This park was founded in colonial times but it is still maintained and enjoyed by the local population where once it would have been the domain of the 'Whites only' policy. I decided to have a wander around and, as the plaques show, there is a wealth of history to this park along with the beautiful grounds, flowers and well established trees. I met a bride about to be married in the church next door and members of the 'Truth and Hope Foundation' football team who were on a day out visiting the Transval museum opposite. Everyone there enjoyed and respected the environment.

Leaving the park I took a shot of the 'Wesley' chapel, partly because of the architecture, partly because of my roots in Methodism. Walking back to the car with a distinct limp now I fell into conversation with a young man who gave me directions to Church Square, which contained some of the original architecture of the city and a couple of other places worth a visit. I would have liked to tour some of the museums but time and my leg did not permit. Perhaps another time.

Apart from the whole area being dug up, to replace pipes I believe, Church Square is magnificent and I hope that it survives the post reconciliation revolution. The Square ws based on the south side of Trafalgar Square in London and the 'Place de la Concord' in Paris. The Kruger statue replaces Nelson, now I know how Krugerands got their name. The predominance of Afrikaans throughout the area implies that, after the indigenous population, the Dutch were here first. I had assumed that the works in progress were to remove the railway lines running around parts of the square and surrounding streets. I was proved wrong on speaking to one of the locals who informed me that even he, who had lived there all his life, did not know of their existence having been covered over in some earlier renovation. I wonder what the authorities intend to do with this discovery?

From the square I drove towards the imposing railway station at the top of Paul Kruger Street. This is where the 'Blue Train', South Africa's equivalent of the 'Orient Express' starts its journey to Cape Town. It is worth a visit to their website for details. Unfortunately it is restricted entry and I could not even get near the ordinary trains servicing the local routes and those to Durban, Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. The resulting diversion led me to the City Hall and the National Museum of Natural History. From that point I followed the signs back to the N1 so that I could exit the city along the R21, the same way I had entered.

On my way in I had seen a sign to Fort Klapperkop which I proposed to visit. Turning left at the signpost I wound my way up the hill through a nature reserve. Stopping at one of the vantage points after having been shocked to see some wild zebra grazing by the side of the road, apparently there are wild porcupine and other critters roaming there if you can spot them! The panorama showed that the first building I saw on entering Pretoria was even bigger than I imagined. A local lady admiring the view pointed out various landmarks such as the ground of the local rugby team and the 

'Union Buildings' the official seat of the SA government and office of the President (didn't get there because of a function). There is a magnificent statue of Nelson Mandela in front of the building. She also pointed out that Pretoria terms purple in October with the thousands of Jacaranda in bloom with the exception of one of the streets below us in which the trees bloom white. What price local knowledge. From there I wound my way to the top to find the gates giving access to the fort closed yet it was not 17:00 hrs, I could not even see the fort, ruin or not. A security guard informed me that the fort was closed from 15:00 hrs due to a private function. I wonder if the bride I met earlier was having her reception there?

Back down the hill, back to Dinkwe to freshen up before partaking of a fish supper at the Ocean Restaurant, Waverly Plaza. Goodnight.

View my 'Pretoria' photo album here