Day 7 commenced with breakfast at the Regal Inn before a leisurely departure along the Route 102 out of the city down the south coast as far as Port Shepstone. This road runs more or less parallel to the N2 toll road which, because of the storm, I had used on Day 2 to reach Durban. This area is known as the 'South Coast' as far as Port Edward. There are views both inland and of the various resorts south of Durban on Indian Ocean. I was making for Port Shepstone where I could join Route 61 and pay a visit to Margate, closely followed by Ramsgate and on down the coast.
I had intended to drive further but, after pulling in to Margate to see what was there I decided to have a relaxing day at the beach. The decision was made after yomping up and down various side streets looking for a shop where I could top up my mobile phone, it would appear that Margate is built on the side of a hill. Refreshment was called for, in this case 'Beer battered' fish and chips and a rather exotic rum punch at a very English looking pub. Besides the beach looked very inviting! I stayed overnight in a holiday apartment which would have housed 10 for the reasonable price of R550.00.
If I had laid in supplies I could have cooked a very large breakfast but decided to start Day 8 with breakfast on the road departing Margate at 08:30, the earliest I could hand in the keys. Driving along Route 61 I passed through Ramsgate admiring the views and speculating on breakfast. I had noticed a lot of blue plastic bags attached to trees as I passed, it dawned on me that these were protecting the banana fruit. North of Durban, sugar cane, south of Durban, bananas. Somewhat like Tenerife. On the right hand side of the road I came across some bright yellow buildings, 'Mac Banana' – well you have to stop don't you.
I was greeted by the security guard who, looking at the truck, asked if I came from Port Alfred. I explained the situation and he then informed me that his great-grandfather and grandfather had owned the 'Pig and Whistle' at Bathurst, would you credit it!!! I could see that I could partake breakfast here so ventured inside. The business had grown from a barn housing a couple of tractors to what looked like an English garden centre complete with gnomes, shop which sells almost everything from preserves to potting compost and, of course, the café/restaurant. I just had to try the 'Banana Big Breakfast'. You can work off the calories on a trial bike or quad-bike trail around the plantation afterwards should you wish.
I opted to continue my journey down to Port Edward and its lighthouse. No lonely outcrop for this lighthouse keeper, it is surrounded by a nature reserve with holiday homes to the landward side. Leaving Port Edward Route 61 crosses an arched metal road bridge which is the border between 'South Coast' and 'Wild Coast' and we are back in Eastern Cape. I haven't spotted a marker buoy stating that “the Indian Ocean ends here” yet. It was a pleasant journey along a road which was in surprisingly good condition. The views are different from those on the N2 further north and my destination of Port St Johns all the more inviting. Besides who could resist driving through 'Flagstaff'. There are some 320 bends on the road over the mountain to reach Port St John so do not be in too much of a hurry. How do I know? The very enterprising 'Pick & Pay' supermarket chain have placed and information board at the top telling drivers that they are half way there with only 120 bends left to go!
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| a Bunny Chow for lunch |
Port St Johns is a beautiful place and I should have stayed there overnight however, after lunch, I was lulled into a false sense of security by the excellent road conditions. Having seen Ghandi's memorial I thought that I would press on to visit the 'Nelson Mandela' Museum at Mthatha or Uthatha as it is sometimes spelt. Big mistake, about half way there I encountered major diversions onto old gravel roads where they are constructing a new dual-carriageway. This went on seemingly forever. When I reached Mthatha I discovered that the museum was closed for refurbishment. Such a shame as this would have rounded off an excellent road trip.
The sun was now setting on my road trip. One day to go and I fly on the following, look out for the last exiting instalment ….
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