The road to East London part 1...
Easter weekend Saturday, this time I turned in the opposite direction along the N72 heading towards East London to see what I could see. Was that a pair of cats running across the highway? No, I realised at the last moment that the long tail disappearing into the bush belonged to a monkey. I pulled over onto the verge and waited by the truck to see if they would reappear, a horn blast from the other side of the road made me turn to see three more scamper across behind me. Hmm, this blog requires patience! I was rewarded after about 10 minutes or so by a head poking out of the bush opposite and the rest as they say is history. I came to realise that, just like buses, monkeys can be seen all over either darting across roads or playing around in the bush as I saw many more during the day.
After a short journey I came to the turn off to Kleinemonde on the east bank of East Kleinemonde river. There is also settlement between and on the west bank of the West Kleinemonde river. Under normal circumstances both rivers would have combined and entered the sea as one but, as I explored Kleinemonde (Seafield on Google maps???) and spoke to some of the locals I began to realise something very important in the development of the area. Driving in both directions along the N72 I had noticed that there were wide sandbars across the mouths of the rivers which I, mistakenly, put down to low tide. This is not the case most of these rivers become landlocked for months if not years. The sandbar is only breached during floods or occasionally a combination heavy storms at sea. This affords excellent fishing as they get stuck in the river, safe swimming boating areas for children and, of course, lots and lots of sand for sandcastles! This explains why so much work went into the construction of the piers and lighthouse, no longer standing, at Port Alfred.
If you look at the photographs I took when I arrived the large expanses of sand on East and West beaches combined with the frequent strong winds would soon have created a sandbar cutting off the harbour. Amazing what you learn as you travel. Incidentally I also discovered that the 1820 settlers landed along the coast at or near Port Elizabeth. The coming of the British army afforded Port Alfred. And, the 1820 settlers arrived after the poverty arising from the Napoleonic wars.
The bar in Lala Lapa |
Back to the adventure …. I spotted the thatched cottage which I had been taken to shortly after I arrived and noticed that there were cars parked outside. The Lala Lapa restaurant and bar was open. Of course I had to stop for lunch which lead to me exploring the village. A very picturesque place of holiday, retirement and residential homes, no overcrowding here. You can still buy a plot or two and design your own 'casa'. Arriving down at the river there are canoes for a spot of boating or fishing up river, an area to swim and miles of sand to explore. There is a quay side should the river get that high.
You still get personal service here |
On the way to the beach |
Having explored I retraced my steps to Lala Lapa where I had left the truck. As it was only about 16:00 hours and the sun was still shining brightly I decided to see how far to 'Fish river' another destination in the direction of East London recommended to me. It is about 10 km further on when I asked. As I steamed along I suddenly slowed and turned right onto a dirt track, I had spotted a signpost to 'Fish River Lighthouse'. It is about a 20 minute drive at 20 km per hour to reach it and there is only one passing point, no room to change your mind and turn around. Monkeys and Ibex bounce along from field to field in front of the vehicle as I proceeded slowly to my destination.
Of course, being a public holiday it was closed for tours inside but what a view, well worth the trip and I must go back for some shots from the top of the lighthouse. Fish River, tomorrow perhaps?
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